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The Greek Capital

Craggy coves and beautiful beaches make up the stunning blend that is the coastline of Athens. Thus at the end of an fall afternoon, I found myself with a rather agreeable question: where to go to soothe bones still aching for a final taste of summer sun. For Athens offers something that other European cities cannot: a shoreline of over 60 kilometers featuring beaches many a Aegean isle would envy.

Out of season, the coasts of the region still have a magnetic allure, as I found when swimming into a dusk across the Vouliagmeni Bay. For those looking for revitalization in marine blue waters primed to turn orange pink as the sun sets, bathing off one of the coastline's public or private beaches does not let you down.

With sea salt still clinging to my skin, I sat at Sardelaki, a tavern whose Mediterranean fare is as good as the breathtaking panorama of the bay it sits on. In a tribute to times past, the meze is served on large wooden trays.

The city is as celebrated for its elevations as its shore: rising terrain within sight of the ancient citadel that make it a rich resource for amblers when the weather cools. For those who want to escape a metropolis that sprawls across almost 500 square kilometers, these stone formations – bearers of wonderful titles such as the Nymphs' Hill and the Hill of the Muses – are a must-see.

In my opinion, this historic city is the continent's most soulful and sublime.

If you climb the top of Mount Lycabettus, the city’s highest point, either on foot or on the cable railway, the reward is a spectacular vista of the entire Argo-Saronic Gulf and the islands beyond.

If you want to stay centrally, the historic Plaka neighborhood remains the best base. The traditional a classic hotel hotel has rooms looking on to the north side of the Acropolis from about £120 bed and breakfast. In the same area, a popular restaurant is a preferred eatery with locals and serves the juiciest lamb cutlets. With vistas of the ancient monument, Athens’ elevated dining spots are highly evocative and perfect for mild fall nights – for a real treat head to Kuzina or the Michelin‑starred Macris.

The Sicilian Capital

Believe Neapolitan pizza is the ultimate in pizza? Reconsider. In this city they prefer Sicilian pizza, a soft, well-risen slice of dough topped with rich, onion-laden tomato sauce and topped with local cheese and oregano. Hearty, filling and cozy, it’s sold in shops, stands and stalls all over the city (a central street in the old town usually has several vendors).

We sample it at a kiosk on Piazza della Kalsa, near where we’re lodging. Panineria Chiluzzo often has big lines, but they move quickly as employees serve slices of sfincione, as well as arancini and panelle. There are a couple of seats under the trees outside, but we eat as we walk into town along tight Via Alloro. This is a pleasant stroll in October but wouldn’t always be in the heat. As hot spells swept Europe this year, the mercury in Sicily topped 40C in the shade. At the end of July one hot spot hit a record 70C at ground level.

We wander the streets and savour how its rich past is written in its streets.

Now, as the climate creep to 75F by the afternoon, we can wander the city and appreciate how its heritage is written in its streets. Passing historic buildings, and Casa Stagnitta, the city’s first coffee house, we admire the unique architecture of the medieval San Cataldo Church; a main square, with its Renaissance fountain, installed under colonial times; and the impressive cathedral, constructed on the location of a ancient Islamic temple.

On the way back we detour to the local market, the origins of which also stretch back over 1,000 years. Some decry its commercialization, but it is still lively and brilliantly theatrical. Being adventurous, we stop for a classic spleen sandwich, which is surprisingly OK, with its slightly sweet “filling” balanced by grated cheese. The vendor is especially pleased of his grilled goat’s intestines but, I’m sorry, no amount of salt and lemon can make those a treat for me.

We’re glad to head back to more peaceful La Kalsa, the former Arab quarter to the eastern part, which was bombed in the second world war and declined for years before being renewed this century. Maison Butera (ocean-facing rooms from $175 with breakfast) is a four-room guesthouse with lots to see nearby. Nearby is Palazzo Butera, a 17th-century grand building restored and relaunched in 2021 to display the an art collection, which includes works by Gilbert & George and pop art icons.

Next day we stroll 10 minutes to Palermo’s gardens, with its record-breaking ancient tree. Songbirds are chirping loudly as the light shines. Soon we’ll be in London, the clocks will go back and winter will start. We enjoy a final days in the sunshine.

The Austrian Capital

While mourning the end of summer and hanging out at seaside spots and bathing spots on the tributaries of the river, I’m now seeking a different color. This city is a metropolis of green spaces and well-kept lawns, meadow sweeps and woodland belts, which exchange their emerald halo for a golden and ochre glow the Austrians call golden autumn.

I leave behind the grandiose architecture and old streets of the historic centre. To the southwest of it, Schloss Schönbrunn Park extends from the grand royal palace, where the gilt isn’t limited for the inside, and leads into corridors of towering copper bushes and arched tree terraces that lead to the bright building.

To the eastern part, in the city’s a large park, I walk beneath the shady trees of the main avenue, an avenue that’s almost three miles long and centuries-old. On the edge of the park, the retro-styled Superbude Prater hotel (rooms from €78 B&B) is a ideally located getaway.

In a city with many city gardens (thanks to a long-standing commitment to encouraging green spaces and building community spirit), autumn brings a abundance of seasonal ingredients on restaurant offerings. Squash soup is the seasonal staple – best devoured in a wood-panelled Beisl such as the decorated Am Nordpol 3 – and followed with a Wiener Schnitzel.

The city is a city of green areas and landscapes that change their emerald halo for a rusty amber and ochre glow.

Unbeknown to many, Vienna is the only European capital to grow wine within its city limits, with 1,723 acres of vineyards. There are fourteen official city hiking trails, known as walking routes. Route one takes you through the wine country of a district. Relax in a slope wine tavern such as a local winery, sipping a zesty white wine with a Brettljause (an assortment of sliced meats and cheese), while enjoying the beautiful urban view.

The hours are getting briefer, but now is the perfect time to wander among Vienna’s grand buildings, museums and historic abodes – a {cultural crop|